ES TRESIdDER

mountain runner, climber and alpinist

 

Es Tressider

Es is an incredibly versatile athlete; a world record-holding mountain runner,

a talented rock climber and an emerging mountaineer. In his own words:

 

"I grew up in the peak district with a climbing father, so learnt a lot at an early age.

For most of my youth I concentrated on fell / mountain running, at which I reached

a respectable standard, representing my country once as a junior. I think I always knew I'd concentrate on climbing at some point, and at 18 I grew bored of running

and switched my attentions to climbing, focussing primarily on scottish winter

climbing while at university in Edinburgh.

Nowadays I split my time and motivation between running and climbing. I'm currently completing an Msc in environmental architecture and working towards a career as a freelance consultant. The plan is to be able to spend my time climbing and running in interesting places and being able to work from those places on days off the hill. 

 

My favourite types of climbing are Scottish and Alpine mixed climbing and any other climbing involving an element of adventure.  New routes have always been the most powerful experiences for me, I love setting off and not really having any idea whether

a route is possible for me or not.  The process of finding out, succeeding or failing, is always exciting.


I spent last winter in the French Alps, learning to ski and doing some winter alpine mountaineering.  I'd like to get into ski mountaineering races in the future, they look like a lot of fun!  I’d like to get stronger at rock climbing, and this would probably help me push things a bit more in winter too.  Breaking the record for running the Cuillin ridge was a long held ambition of mine, and I’d love to do some more things like that in the future. "

 

To find out more about Es and what he has been up to lately please visit www.es-on-ice.co.uk

 

Expeditions

 

2008: Greenland, Tasermiut Fjord. 

  • First ascent of the east pillar of Tininnertup II via Piriton Pillar (E5 6a, 700m).  Climbed alpine style in ~14 hours with Dan McManus.
  • New route on the west buttress of Hermelnbjerg  (2nd ascent of the face, 1st free ascent) via Ramblin’ Man (E5 6b, 1200m).  Climbed Alpine style in ~30 hours with Dan McManus.

 

2004: Kyrgyzstan, western Kokshaal Tau.

  • First ascent of The Great Walls of China via Border Control (Scottish VII/VIII, A1, ED2, 500m).  Climbed alpine style in 30 hours round trip with Guy Robertson.
  • First ascent of Haggis Supper (WI 5+, 500m), south face of Panfilovski Division.
  • First ascent of Fire and Ice (Scottish VII, 500m), Ochre Walls.

 

2002: Kyrgyzstan, western Kokshaal Tau.

  • Two attempts on the spectacular unclimbed central couloir on the south-east face of Kyzyl Asker.

 

Scottish winter

 

New routes

  • Red Right Hand (VIII, 8), Ben Nevis.  Climbed onsight with Iain Small and Dan McManus.
  • Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner (VII, 7), Ben Nevis. Climbed onsight (for me) with Blair Fyffe.  Blair had climbed most of the route before, but had avoided the crux pitch in a storm.
  • West Buttress Super Direttissima (VII, 8), Beinne Eighe. Climbed onsight with Guy Robertson.
  • Eye Candy (VII, 7), Creag Meagaidh.  Climbed onsight with Guy Robertson and Slovenian climber Primoz Hostnik.
  • The Moth (VII, 8), Creag Meagaidh.  Climbed onsight with Guy Robertson.
  • Fairytale Grooves (VII, 8), Ben Eighe.  Climbed onsight with Blair Fyffe.
  • Rok of Ages (VII, 7), Ben Nevis.  Climbed onsight with Slovenian climber Rok Zalokar.
  • Poco Loco direct (VII, 7), Churchdoor Buttress.  Climbed onsight with my  brother in-law, Ian Lewis.
  • State of Independence (VII, 8), Lochnagar.  Climbed onsight with Viv Scott.
  • Hot Toddy (VII, 8), Beinn a Bhuird.  Added direct finish.  Climbed onsight with Guy Robertson.

Repeats

  • Trail of Tears (VII, 8), Lochnagar.  Climbed on my 3rd attempt with Blair Fyffe.  3rd ascent.
  • West Central Gully (???), Beinne Eighe.  Climbed onsight with one fall, with Guy Robertson. 2nd ascent.
  • The Duel (IX, 9).  Stob Coire nan Lochan.  Climbed crux wall pitch onsight, added new finish.  3rd ascent.
  • Jailbreak (VIII, 7), Coire an Sneachda.  Climbed onsight with Blair Fyffe.  3rd ascent.
  • The Vicar (VII, 8), Coire an Lochan.  Climbed onsight with Guy Robertson.
  • Neanderthal (VII, 7), Lost Valley.  Climbed onsight with Ali Coull.

 

Alpine

 

  • North face of the Eiger, 1938 route, (ED2).
  • North face of the Droites, Colton Brooks route,(ED1). 
  • North face of the Dent du Requin, Rebuffat route (IV, 4 5a/A1).
  • Fantasia per a Ghiacciatore, (V  5+, 6a) Mont Maudit
  • Scotch on the Rocks, (IV, M7) Mont Blanc du Tacul.
  • Ice is nice, (IV, 5+) cirque du Requin.

 

Mountain running

 

  • Record holder for the traverse of the Cuillin Ridge in Skye - 3hrs 17 minutes, breaking the previous record by nearly 15 minutes.

 

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