Martin Moran | 1955 – 2019

It is with a sense of profound shock and sadness that we have received the news that Martin Moran has died whilst climbing in the Indian Himalaya.

Martin, a British and IFMGA Mountain Guide, had been leading an expedition to climb Sunanda Devi (Nanda Devi East) along with seven other climbers when they were reported missing in early June. It is believed that he and his group were caught in an avalanche whilst acclimatising on an adjacent un-named peak.

As a guide, mountaineer and respected author, Martin was a long-standing friend and ambassador for Mountain Equipment. He was also an inspiration to many and his talent as a climber was unquestionable, having pioneered numerous routes in the Himalaya and established more than a hundred new winter climbs in Scotland – many of a high standard which have gone on to become sought-after test-pieces.

But it was the sheer breadth of his achievements in the mountains that stood Martin apart and made him one of the most influential mountaineers Britain has seen. A one-time record holder of the Cuillin Ridge traverse, in a phenomenal 3 hours and 33 minutes; the first to make a complete round of the Scottish Munro’s during a single winter season and the first to make a complete traverse of 75 4000 metre alpine peaks without motorised assistance, a feat which took he and fellow mountain guide, Simon Jenkins, just 52 days.

Continuous rounds, epic enchainment’s, record-breaking fell-runs, first ascents; Martin did it all.

Our thoughts are with his wife Joy and two children Alex and Hazel along with those of the other climber’s friends and family.

Martin, you will be sorely missed. Rest in peace.