CHINESISCHE MAUER CLIMBING

Destination Guide

CHINESISCHE MAUER CLIMBING

Destination Guide

Chinesische Mauer Climbing Guide, RobertGrasegger

Words by
Robert Grasegger

Chinesische Mauer is a huge Sport Climbing Crag just a 20 minute drive from where I live in Leutasch. Chinesische Mauer (literally the Great Wall of China), also known as China Mauer, is a climbing area located in the Olympic region of the Austrian Tyrol, between Austria and Germany. It is part of the Öfelekopfes in the Wetterstein mountain range.

One of the largest climbing areas in Tyrol, it is famous for its alpine climbing walls like Schüsselkar and Scharnitzspitze, but also offers some excellent sport climbing crags. The biggest, hardest and most awesome one is definitely the Chinesische Mauer.

 

Park up in Puitbach, and you’ll already be able to see the huge crag, which springs into view as you drive through the valley. From the car park take the easy 30 minute approach along the marked paths, which takes you right to the base of the climbs. With more than 170 routes spread across 11 sectors of Limestone, anyone who can climb 6a and harder will find something to sink their teeth into. The slogan “life starts at 6a+” fits this wall best.

From hard endurance routes to routes with athletic boulder moves, everything can be found. There are even some multipitch routes on offer at the higher parts of the wall.

Climbing at Chinesische Mauer is possible year round. Since the wall gets lots of sun, it’s also a good option for climbing in winter. Summer sun can mean the wall gets too hot on occassion however, so the best days to send in reality are in Spring, Autumn, and warmer Winter days. Even on rainy days, some of the harder overhanging routes under a roof will be dry. And the other parts will dry really quickly when the sun hits the wall.

HENKELPARADE

7a (10m)

Translated: Jug Parade. This might be one of the best routes at this grade. It’s hard but short. Not everything that looks like a jug really is a good jug. But as soon as you find the good ones it’s a nice athletic climb that is pretty technically hard as well.

SAMURAI

6c (18m)

This is one of the real classics in the area. The crux is quite hard but afterwards becomes a real pleasure. The route has everything to offer from sloper to crimps and an overhang. It is a super nice climb and might be one of the most fun routes at this grade.

PAGODENPFAD

6a+ (100m, 4 pitches)

A perfect and diverse route for a warm up, climbing 4 easy pitches. The first pitch starts in a dihedral. The second pitch continues along a nice crack. The last two pitches are great to climb on drip holes. This route is one of the few multipitch routes at the crag and might be one of the better easier routes there. For me personally, this might be my favourite route for a sunset cruise with my girlfriend.

REBLAUS

6c+ (10m)

Short but overhanging athletic climb through a roof. After the roof follows a nice slab. The base can be a little harder, but it is super obvious how you have to climb it.

PULS 2000

7c+ (22m)

The most famous line at the Crag. It was bolted by Heinz Zak and Georg Walch in 1992. It’s super steep and follows up pockets, small underclings and crimps. It needs lots of strength and endurance to get the red point. The quality of the rock is great and the route is really diversified. The route is very pumpy but well secured with bolts. It also offers a sensational view over the valley.

THE SWITCH JACKET

I love the Switch Jacket. It’s my favourite jacket for alpine routes, but it’s great for sport climbing as well, especially while belaying. It’s very light and keeps you warm and dry when moving fast.

With its exceptional moisture transfer and high warmth-to-weight ratio, the POLARTEC® Alpha® core is the current state-of-the-art in breathable insulation. Allied to proven Pontetorto® Tecnopile fleece, the Switch is an essential piece for active layering.

SWITCH WOMEN’S JACKET

A hybrid insulated mid-layer that is ideally suited to those needing to move fast over technical ground.

SWITCH JACKET

A hybrid insulated mid-layer that is ideally suited to those needing to move fast over technical ground.