In the "early morning in the sun" it is hardly possible to get lost because of the countless bolts. Somewhat artificial, the line tries to connect the steepest passages of the staggered wall. However, we soon realise that the neighbouring "Herbstwind" apparently connects the most beautiful climbing sections instead of the most difficult ones. But every few pitches you can switch between the routes, so there is something for everyone.
The east ridge route is very busy. Due to the melting of the glacier, the normal route to the highest peak of the Kaunergrat now runs here - despite difficulties in the fourth grade and an impressive climbing length of 700 metres in altitude. There is hardly any walking terrain.
Again we are treated to warm, rough gneiss. It is a rush to climb up this giant staircase. At the summit, the view stretches from the Stubai Alps to the Bernina. We don't have much time to enjoy it, because the way back is long. 700 metres of concentrated descending stand between us and dinner - at the Watzespitze, the summit is literally only half the way, there is no easier descent in summer.
The crux of the day comes at the hut: we have to decide which tour we will do tomorrow. Not so easy, given the choice! There is the north pillar of the Watzespitze, which has also been renovated with bolts. It promises a similar bizarre-flowy mixture of alpine line and comfortable safety as the Verpeilspitze north ridge. The west ridge of the Verpeilspitze, also bolted, is somewhat easier and considerably shorter. Or would you like another sports climbing tour? In addition to the tours on the Watzespitze East Pillar, there are other tours on the so-called "second East Pillar" a little further south, including a praised mysterious finger crack pitch! To the west of the Madatschjoch, the Madatsch towers are a jagged gneiss playground with various routes up to VII and an exciting traverse. The list of classics seems endless. Although one or two have collapsed in the meantime, just as many are waiting to be rediscovered.